Escola Superior de Conservació i Restauració de Bés Culturals de Catalunya
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Ageing of brazil wood dye in wool-a chromatographic and spectrometric study

Material type: ArticleArticleDescription: 9 pISBN:
  • 1296-2074
Subject(s): In: Journal of Cultural Heritage 3 14 4, 471-479Abstract: Brazilwood was used in this work to dye wool mordanted with different amounts of copper (II) sulfate, alum and iron (II) sulfate. Two different dyeing methods were used: premordanting (MD) and simultaneous mordanting (M+D) procedures. In order to evaluate the influence of the mordant ion in the brazilein chromophore photo degradation, samples were subjected to artificial light aging. Color measurements were made and, for the first time, LC-DAD-ESI-MS was used for chromophore analysis of the dyed fibers before and after light exposure. Mordant ion quantification was done aftr fiber acid digestion,by inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) and flame atomic absorption spectroscopy (FAAS). Mordant metal ion, ,ordant bath concentration and dyeing procedure were found to have strong influence in the wool fiber hues. Color variation was more pronounced in the alum dyed samples. Overall, mordant quantification showed that the amount of metal ions found in the fibers is very small when compared to the original concentrations of the dyeing bath, being Cu the ions with greater affinity for the wool fibers. MD dyeing procedure yielded fibers with larger amounts of mordant metal ions and higher chromophore peak areas. Higher amounts of brazilein were ext rated from wool mordanted with copper (II) sulfate. Finally, chromatographic analysis of the brazil wood dyed samples before and after light exposure resulted in the detection of Type C compound as an outcome of the photo degradation process
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Brazilwood was used in this work to dye wool mordanted with different amounts of copper (II) sulfate, alum and iron (II) sulfate. Two different dyeing methods were used: premordanting (MD) and simultaneous mordanting (M+D) procedures. In order to evaluate the influence of the mordant ion in the brazilein chromophore photo degradation, samples were subjected to artificial light aging. Color measurements were made and, for the first time, LC-DAD-ESI-MS was used for chromophore analysis of the dyed fibers before and after light exposure. Mordant ion quantification was done aftr fiber acid digestion,by inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) and flame atomic absorption spectroscopy (FAAS). Mordant metal ion, ,ordant bath concentration and dyeing procedure were found to have strong influence in the wool fiber hues. Color variation was more pronounced in the alum dyed samples. Overall, mordant quantification showed that the amount of metal ions found in the fibers is very small when compared to the original concentrations of the dyeing bath, being Cu the ions with greater affinity for the wool fibers. MD dyeing procedure yielded fibers with larger amounts of mordant metal ions and higher chromophore peak areas. Higher amounts of brazilein were ext rated from wool mordanted with copper (II) sulfate. Finally, chromatographic analysis of the brazil wood dyed samples before and after light exposure resulted in the detection of Type C compound as an outcome of the photo degradation process

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